Ajapsandali

(aka a Georgian ratatouille)

Ingredients

• 2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, unpeeled
• ⅓ cup mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed (ghee OK)
• 2 pounds eggplant, stemmed, unpeeled and cut into ¾-inch chunks (see note)
• 2 teaspoons sea or kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste
• 2 large yellow onions, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 2 large Cubanelle peppers, seeded and cut into ¾-inch pieces (see note)
• 1 medium red or yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into ¾-inch pieces
• 2 cups uncooked tomato purée (passata), fresh or jarred
• ⅓ cup coarsely chopped cilantro, divided
• ⅓ cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves, divided
• 20 basil leaves, preferably purple (Thai or “holy”), torn
• ¼–½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, to taste
• ½ teaspoon coriander powder
• ¼ teaspoon savory or dried thyme leaves, crushed in hand
• 3 garlic cloves, mashed into a paste, divided
• Water or vegetable broth

Method

1. Microwave the potatoes on High, turning them halfway through cooking, until fork tender, 9–11 minutes, depending on size. When cool enough to handle, cut into ¾-inch chunks and set aside.
2. Meanwhile, to a large pot set over medium-high heat, add the oil (or ghee). When hot and shimmering, add the eggplant and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Turn the heat to medium and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant begins to color and break down, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or spider, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside.
3. Turn the heat to high. To the empty pot, add the onion and remaining salt and cook, stirring frequently and adding more oil or ghee if needed, until translucent and brown in spots, about 10 minutes. Add the Cubanelle and bell peppers and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened slightly, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato purée and only half each of the cilantro, parsley and basil.
4. Add half of the garlic paste, all of the cayenne, coriander, thyme, reserved potatoes and eggplant and 1 cup of water or vegetable broth and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly, anywhere from 10-20 minutes. To your choosing.
5. Stir in the remaining garlic, cilantro, parsley and basil and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Season with salt and serve hot, at room temperature or even chilled, drizzled with oil if desired.

Notes

• About the eggplant, use whatever suits your (or the market's) fancy: large purple glove, elongated violet Asian, small ball-like Thai, and so forth.
• About the spicy peppers, substitutions abound for Cubanelle: Anaheim, sweet Italian, sweet red Bulgarian.